Had I not read Bill Bryson’s book A Walk in the Woods, I would know absolutely nothing about the White Mountains. The book is an account of his hiking experiences on the Appalachian Trail, including a trek up Mount Washington, which is the highest peak in the White Mountains, as well as in the Northeastern United States. And that is all I knew about the White Mountains until a recent visit to explore New Hampshire.
We used North Conway as our base, and it became abundantly clear that this is a recreation resort town – ski shops and outfitters were ubiquitous along the main highway. There was also a plethora of alpine structures, most of them motels and souvenir shops from the 1950s and 60s. This eclectic mix of period architecture seemed incongruous with the many contemporary fast-food restaurants, mainstream hotel brands and outlet malls.
Although the winter season was well over, some of the mountains remained snow covered. The numerous banners in front of the ski shops advertising big discounts was evidence that the ski season had ended. The town was not quiet, however, with a steady stream of vehicles traveling White Mountain Highway, the town’s main thoroughfare. Clearly, the appeal of North Conway goes beyond winter activities and the quality of varied dining options reflected that. We had delicious meals with craft beers at both Black Cap Grill and Barley & Salt.
As readers of my blog know, I try to remain upbeat and encouraging when reporting on my travel experiences. However, every once in a while there is a disappointment so monumental that it deserves mentioning, and in North Conway it is the Conway Scenic Railroad. There is nothing at all redeeming about this rail journey; it is anything but scenic, the narration is uninteresting and the trip grossly overpriced. The views on a drive up to the base of Mount Washington and from the trails that comprise Pinkham Notch are much better and do not cost anything but time and gasoline.
We did not attempt the road trip up to Mount Washington. Everything we read suggested that the journey is perilous. And, after the rip off that was the train journey, we were not tempted to part with the $65 fee for the white-knuckle ride that is the Mount Washington Auto Road. So, we took in the views from some of the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center’s trails, including the scenic Glen Ellis Falls trail.
Another easy hike to scenic waterfalls is the Diana’s Bath in Bartlett, just north and west of North Conway. It is a half-mile or so walk along a level and wide gravel path to the spectacular cascades that make up the falls. The self-service parking fee is $5, but is waived if you have the National Park Service America the Beautiful annual pass on display.
Without question, the most enjoyable part of our visit was the drive along the Kancamagus Highway, spanning 34 ½ miles west of Conway to Lincoln. There are numerous overlooks along the way to view the scenic wilderness of the White Mountains. A popular stop approximately 30 minutes outside of Conway is the Sabbaday Falls Observation Site. The hike from the parking area (also a $5 fee, waived with the NPS pass on display) to the Falls is approximately 15 minutes on a reasonably flat and wide gravel and dirt trail. The trail continues beyond the cascades along Sabbaday Brook for a moderately difficult hike up to Mount Tripyramid (which we skipped, having already worn ourselves out from several previous hikes).
The Spring season is a good time of year to visit the White Mountains, especially prior to the end of the school year – our visit was during the first week of June. Having said that, it also coincides with the “buggiest” season and appropriate clothing is highly recommended. We even had head nets, which came in handy on one or two of our hikes.
Note: I am not being compensated for my mention of the various businesses or attractions in this post. I am simply a happy customer!
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