A weekend in Christchurch, NZ

Because of a devastating earthquake in 2010, the city of Christchurch has occupied an extended period in a form of civic purgatory.  Some 80% of the buildings in the city were either destroyed or severely compromised, and so the community has endured an agonizingly slow rebuild.  But after 15 years the dedicated effort to rejuvenate the city is evidenced by a vibrancy and newness that is infectious, especially in center city Christchurch.

Most of the construction in the city is low-rise, only a few hotel and residential buildings extend beyond 4 to 5 stories.  As such, the new domed stadium can be seen from anywhere in the city. The city has a low-key vibe to it and green space is at a premium.  The Avon River ambles through the city center adding a tranquility that reinforces the vibe. Residents of Christchurch obviously enjoy dining out, as restaurants and taverns seem to be ubiquitous. It all adds up to a very pleasant overall atmosphere.

the City of Christchurch is adorned with street art at every turn

And while Christchurch is modest in scale, there is plenty to do over an extended weekend stay.  The arts programming seems to be robust – during our visit there was an excellent Banksy exhibit at the convention center and an International Busking Festival taking over many outdoor gathering spots.  Granted we visited in summer, but there still seemed to be quite a bit going on in the city on a regular basis.

As an introduction to Christchurch, we took an informative tour on one of the many antique trams.  This was a very convenient way to take note of sites we were interested in visiting later. It also provided a brief introduction to the street art that is ubiquitous in Christchurch, and an attraction in and of itself.  On the tram tour you learn about the transformation of the city following the earthquake, which defines the current cityscape you see around you, and it is worth exploring further by visiting Quake City Museum.

an easy introduction to the City of Christchurch is to take a tour on one of the many antique trams

The Quake City Museum provides a detailed narrative of the events surrounding the devastating earthquake of 2010.  Although small in scale, the exhibits are detailed in the way that some of the older Washington, DC Smithsonian exhibits can be (especially if you remember the Air and Space Museum before its refurbishment in 2024).  It probably means a lot to locals to revisit the stories around this event, but I admit to finding some of the interpretation a bit dense and I found myself skimming over many of the details.

Less convenient, but still enjoyable was the cable car attraction.  Because it is outside the city, getting there from the city center requires a round-trip bus excursion of about 20 minutes each way.  Even though it feels like a tourist trap, the views from the top are spectacular and worth the effort.  If you want another excursion to explore beyond Christchurch city center, it is also worth taking the #3 bus out to Sumner, a 20–30-minute trip, for a flavor of the beach and coastal life.

the Riverside Market is a culinary delight in the city center

I am a big fan of public markets, so a key attraction of Christchurch for us was the bustling Riverside Market, which is connected to the city center shopping pavilions by a series of alleys and alcoves which are quite charming.  The collection of tenants in the Riverside Market was also interesting, with a combination of produce vendors, specialty grocers, eateries, beer makers and distillers, among other cool things.

punting on the Avon River adjoining the Botanic Gardens

But I think the highlight of the city’s attractions is its huge Botanic Gardens.  It conveniently adjoins the city center and, together with the Avon River, facilitates a bucolic downshift from the urban cityscape.  The rose garden is stunning, and the adjacent dahlia garden is unique.  It may not be the largest of urban botanical gardens, but its presence within the confines of the city core contributes to an unmistakable urban serenity. If you visit the gardens in the morning, find your way to the Arts Centre afterwards for a delightful wine flight and plate sharing at the Cellar Door tavern.

Kia pai to haerenga (bon voyage)