A weekend in Kyoto
- therockettman
- 4 days ago
- 4 min read
I have always been somewhat reluctant to travel to Japan because my impression is that the culture would be overwhelming. That may sound odd coming from someone who has lived abroad and travels extensively. But even with the experience of visiting some 70 countries, there are a handful that are so exotic that they are a shock to the system. After hearing from so many friends how amazing Japan is, I finally relented and took advantage of a five-day weekend while on assignment in Hong Kong to make my first trip to Japan.
We decided to fly into Osaka and continue via Haruka express train to Kyoto, which is a cultural city renowned for its Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, as well as a rich culinary tradition. Our to do list was dominated by all three in equal measures!
We chose to stay in a hotel within the Kyoto station district, as this location proved convenient for using public transport, which was equally efficient and extensive. The public rail system in Japan can also be confusing as there are several different operators – seven alone in Kyoto in addition to the public subway. So, it can take time and real effort to decipher the rail network in any Japanese city. The good thing is you can get an electronic ICOCA card and load it with cash for universal access to the rail network and local buses.
Our first morning was spent in a soggy downpour while visiting the Nijō-jo castle, which is a former imperial villa and now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Admittedly, the rain made it difficult to appreciate the extensive palace grounds. But I was impressed by the existence of both an exterior moat, as well as an additional interior moat that protects the second of the two palace structures.
We waited for the rain to stop and, after a change of clothes, headed for lunch at the Nishiki market in the Shijo district to graze among the many food stalls. The Nishiki market is a narrow, five-block long alleyway comprising more than 100 shops and food stalls / restaurants that is literally one parallel block removed from one of Kyoto’s swankiest shopping streets. Many of these tenants have been here for centuries - operated by the same families for generations.
Sampling authentic dishes in a local food market is one of my favorite pastimes, and the more exotic the better. A highlight of the Nishiki market is tako tamago, which literally means octopus egg. After the baby octopus is marinated in mirin, soy and sugar, a quail egg is inserted in the head and cooked, then served on a bamboo stick.
Another staple is kushiage, or deep-fried food on a stick. Nothing is off limits in this department with ingredients ranging from eel (unagi) to wagyu beef, prawns and vegetables. Most stalls serve ice-cold draft beer to wash down these delicious bites. Be sure to have pleny of Japanese Yen on hand as most of these food stalls only take cash.
Our next day was devoted to touring some of the more prominent temples and shrines for which Kyoto is known. Our day began at the Fushimi Inari shrine, which is the most important shrine dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice. This shrine is famous for thousands of bright red torii gates and is a popular destination in Kyoto, so expect it to be very busy (as it was for us) although the further you wander from the entrance the less visitors there are.
We followed that with a quieter stroll around the Tōfuku-ji temple, which is a major Zen temple comprising shady walks, bridge, a moss garden and rock garden. The absence of crowds contributed to the Zen-like feeling.
It was back to the crowds at Sanjūsangen-dō temple, which is an impressive display of 1001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of compassion, which are guarded by 28 Buddhist deities. That visit was followed by a walk around the gardens of the serene Ginkaku-ji temple, or Silver Pavilion and then a stroll down the shady and bucolic Philosopher’s Walk.
Our food experience in Kyoto was outstanding, with one exception. We booked a Foodie Tour on Viator that did not meet expectations. The food tour was marginal and cost US$150 per person, which turned out to be an expensive three-hour introduction to the Gion and Pontocho neighborhoods. We did much better identifying great dining on our own in the same neighborhoods at about the same price per person.
One of our finds included a ten-course Kaiseki meal at Namisato in the Gion neighborhood. Kaiseki is a traditional approach to cooking in Japan, which involves a series of very intricate, small dishes, in this case served over the course of about two hours. Our experience at Namisato may well be among the best restaurant experiences we have ever had, made even better by the tasty array of sake.
It feels as though we barely scratched the surface of possibilities during our visit to Kyoto. Although we did pack in a ton over 2 ½ days. There are so many more sights to see and so much more gastronomy to discover on our next visit!
Tanoshii go-ryoko o (pleasant travels)!
Comentários