Food and wine of New Zealand

a food and wine tasting at the Wine & Food Experience Marlborough

Motivations to visit New Zealand most likely will stem from the incredible mystique created by the Lord of the Rings blockbuster movie trilogy and Tourism New Zealand shamelessly leverages that mystique.  It worked for me, but I also had other intentions that involved indulging in my favorite retirement past time of fly-fishing for trout.  So, there was no hesitation in deciding to spend a month in New Zealand after a year-long teaching assignment in Hong Kong, splitting the time between fishing and touring with my favorite travel companion.

Ask many people what they know about the food and wine of New Zealand, and I bet a majority will mention Sauvignon Blanc wines.  This would not be surprising as this grape varietal put New Zealand on the viticultural map a few decades ago.  There then may be some awareness of lamb as a staple of New Zealand cuisine, but I think the responses become less obvious after that.  Even I, with 70 countries visited, had to do some research on what to expect from the gastronomy of New Zealand.

a sumptuous New Zealand lamb shank

A tour of the country highlights the prominence of lamb as a staple of the New Zealand diet (locals call themselves Kiwis), as sheep are everywhere.  Visit any restaurant or tavern, whether in the city or a rural setting, and lamb undoubtedly will feature on the menu in any number of cuts, but often as a shank or rump.  Selecting this option as the entrée is a must as it may very well be the most succulent lamb ever experienced, and possibly among the more memorable dishes during one’s visit to New Zealand.

Mills Bay mussels of Havelock in the Marlborough Sound of New Zealand's South Island

Given that the country is comprised of two very big islands, it should not be surprising that seafood is also a staple.  Green lipped mussels are a treat that should not be missed, often steamed in a simple wine-based broth and served with toasted bread.  But having said that, we sampled the local mussels many ways, including as croquettes and also baked in the shell in a manner that resembles clams casino.  Rock lobsters (called crayfish) also feature as a specialty in some coastal towns.  One famous 'lobster pound', called Nins Bin, is a rustic coastal cafe some 30 minutes’ drive north of Kaikoura on the road to the Marlborough wine region.

lobsters (aka crayfish) at Nin's Bin north of Kaikoura

And then there are the pies!  These are not sweet, fruity desserts, but are instead a savory delight, generally filled with meat – either beef, chicken or game – and enjoyed by Kiwis as a meal or snack from early morning to mid-afternoon.  Some of the best we tried were from tiny establishments in small villages where it is not unusual to find a queue of patrons waiting to order their favorite treat.

savory pies filled with venison and wallaby

Despite being known for Sauvignon Blanc, there is more to New Zealand wine than this single varietal.  We sampled wine from many vineyards representing the various viticultural regions of the north end of the South Island, from North Canterbury to Marlborough and Nelson and were impressed by the variety and quality.  Although more than 80% of Marlborough wines are Sauvignon Blanc, a majority is produced for export.  Wine lovers outside of New Zealand rarely get the privilege of sampling world-class Pinot Noirs and Pinot Gris that are expertly produced by the aforementioned regions of the South Island.

a delicious wine flight at Saint Clair

Notable vineyards of the Marlborough region includes the producer that put the region on the map – Cloudy Bay, which is worth the hype with a delightful tasting experience in a world class facility (as in Australia, the tasting rooms here are called Cellar Doors).  Other standouts included Hunter’s, Te Whara Ra, Wairau River and St Claire, with the latter two serving up delicious lunches in the on-premises restaurant.  But we were most impressed with Clos Henri, which produced the most distinctive array of Sauvignon Blanc wines we tasted.

a tasting line up at Framingham Vineyard

If your travels take you to the Nelson region, possibly to visit the Abel Tasman National Park, then a stop at the Neudorf cellar door would be in order.  This winery had the most compelling lineup of wines we experienced in New Zealand with an emphasis on two different featured lines comprising estate grown (Home Block Moutere line) and house wines (Tiritiri line).

So, while you may go to New Zealand initially for the dramatic landscapes and Kia Ora hospitality, the takeaway may be that Kiwi cuisine is a good enough reason to visit.

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