A weekend in Osaka

I have always been somewhat reluctant to travel to Japan because my impression is that the culture would be overwhelming.  That may sound odd coming from someone who has lived abroad and travels extensively.  But even with the experience of visiting some 70 countries, there are a handful that are so exotic that they are a shock to the system.  After hearing from so many friends how amazing Japan is, I finally relented and took advantage of a five-day weekend while on assignment in Hong Kong to make my first trip to Japan. 

We decided to fly into Osaka and continue via Haruka express train to Kyoto for the first part of our trip.  We followed this by spending some time in Osaka, which was like being on another planet - Osaka is all business and Kyoto is all cultural heritage.  Kyoto also felt more international, probably because of the tourism component that Osaka seems to lack.  What they do have in common is the confusing transport network that comprises several different rail operators in addition to the subway line.  Osaka also is a culinary destination in its own right and is often referred to as the “Kitchen of Japan”.

Most local tourists to Osaka are likely there for Universal Studios Japan, or the renowned aquarium, neither of which attracted our attention.  But it also has one of the country’s most famous landmarks in Osaka Castle, which is central to the unification of Japan in the late 16th and early 17th centuries.  Today it is a museum and gardens situated in a one-kilometer compound surrounded by a series of moats and fortifications in central Osaka.

Tōdai-ji temple of Nara houses a very large bronze Buddha statue

Osaka can also serve as a base for a day trip to Nara, which was the capital of Japan for most of the 8th century.  A landmark attraction in Nara is the Tōdai-ji (Great Eastern) temple, the head temple of all the provincial Buddhist temples of Japan.  It houses one of the largest bronze Buddha statues in Japan.  It also attracts large crowds, so getting there early is a good idea.  There are regular rapid service trains that can get you from Osaka to Nara in less than an hour.

Sika deer foraging in Nara Park

A unique attraction of Nara is the large population of Sika deer that inhabit Nara Park.  These creatures are fiercely protected by the local community as they are considered “messengers of the gods”, according to local lore.  The deer are reasonably tame and ubiquitous throughout the Park, even on hallowed temple grounds, many begging the passing tourists for biscuits sold by street vendors specifically for feeding the deer.

For us, no visit to a new city is complete without sampling the gastronomy.  Despite our disappointing Foodie Tour experience in Kyoto, we booked a similar excursion in Osaka with the hope that we would learn something different about the cuisine of Osaka that we would not discover on our own.  This turned out to be a good decision as our Foodie Tour guide provided us with a great introduction to the lively nightlife of the Dotonbori and Shinsekai neighborhoods.

Shinsekai gateway to amusement and great food

The Shinsekai neighborhood is a 24/7 amusement experience.  It feels like an urban version of an American seaside amusement pier, complete with cork guns, ring toss, crane games, as well as archery ranges (a uniquely Japanese pastime).  There are also some quirky eateries with retro themes – one restaurant actually allows you to fish for your dinner.

can you identify the items comprising this serving of kushikatsu?

The neighborhood specialty dish is kushikatsu, basically fried food on a stick. We sampled this as kushiage in Kyoto's Nishiki market, but the Osaka-bito (people from Osaka) have their own name for this dish.  The eatery that our guide chose for us provided ten different selections on one plate with a sweet Worcestershire sauce for dipping and cold beer to wash it down.  The Shinsekai neighborhood is basically a Japanese version of Coney Island in the urban core of the city.

The Dotonbori district nearby is a bit like NYC’s Times Square in that it is teeming with people, cluttered with neon lights and always performing.  This neighborhood is generally considered Osaka’s nighttime playground.  Our guide gave us a quick introduction (no easy feat due to the throngs of people) and then corralled us into a very rustic eatery known for a very specific and iconic dish of Osaka – okonomiyaki.

a sumptuous feast of okonomiyaki.

This is a savory pancake dish that is prepared by the customer teppanyaki style on a large griddle.  Think of a communal table with a flat (and hot) griddle in the middle on which you grill the large scale format equivalent of a potato pancake with either veggies or protein blended into the batter.

Meshiagare (bon appétit)!